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The Resort Hotels - Portofino Bay Hotel: Bice


What: Fine gourmet dining, Northern Italian style
Where: On the third level overlooking the Bay
Price Range: $$$$+
Hours: Daily, 5:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.
Reservations: Not required, but strongly suggested
(407) 503-1415 or Orlando
Web: www.biceorlando.com

If the name Bice rings a bell, then there’s a good chance you are an international jet setter with a generous expense account. The Portofino Bay Bice is just the latest addition to a chain that spans the globe, with outposts in some forty cities, most of them financial or mercantile capitals (like Amsterdam, Tokyo, New York, and Dubai) or resorts of the rich and famous (like Monte Carlo, Palm Beach, and Tahiti). Bice has a proud history and a reputation for superb Italian cuisine.

Bice was founded in Milan, Italy, in 1926 by Beatrice Ruggeri (Bice is an Italian diminutive for Beatrice). It was a family affair and still is, with the Ruggeri family still in control and still zealously maintaining its high standards. The atmosphere is one of hip, casual elegance. The main dining room is open and airy, with tall ceilings and large windows looking out onto the bay; black and white predominate, with elaborate flower arrangements adding a touch of color. Starched tablecloths on widely-spaced tables add a certain formality to the trendy feel of the room, which can get extremely noisy when it’s busy.

The menu leans strongly to Northern Italian specialties. Antipasti and Insalate ($10 to $21) include Bice’s signature tri-color salad with arugula, endive, and radicchio in a blue cheese lemon dressing. Other starters include such standards as mozzarella with tomatoes and basil, prosciutto and melon, superbly sweet fried calamari, and tuna tartare. Primi Piatti (pastas and risottos) ($16 to $28) range from penne in a simple, but spicy, tomato sauce to risotto with lobster and asparagus. The Bice signature here is Pappardelle al Telefono, broad pasta ribbons in a mozzarella and tomato cream sauce, a simple dish that is here done to perfection.

Secondi Piatti ($29 to $45) include fish dishes such as red snapper, tuna, salmon and the like in simple sauces with vegetable accompaniments. Meat lovers will want to try the Ossobuco alla Milanese, another Bice specialty, a rich veal shank on a bed of saffron risotto. Other entrees include hearty steaks and chops and homey poultry dishes like grilled chicken breast. Side orders of vegetables ($6) are also available. Desserts ($8 to $12) cover the usual Italian bases with the Chioccolatissimo alla Bice the standout.

As you can see, the food here is not cheap, so you may want to take out a second mortgage if you plan on having wine with dinner. The extensive wine list ranges from $40 to $500. Expect to pay $40 to $60 for a decent bottle. As you might expect, the list leans heavily to Italian wines, with a great selection of “Super Tuscan” wines listed from $60 to $495. Montalcinos range from $55 to $80 and the superior Brunello di Montalcino can be had for $95 to $190. Many wines can be ordered by the glass ($8 to $20).

At these prices, perfection seems a reasonable expectation. Based on my experience and reports from other diners, however, both food quality and service have been hit or miss. On the other hand, the place received the 2007 Readers’ Choice Award as Best Italian from Orlando Style magazine.

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